Halston, the creative queer who embroidered his last name in a new femininity

VALENCIA.A blow of luck seems essential to achieve success.Halston from a young age dedicated himself to creating non -stop: the design of windows to different accessories, headdresses and hats.After a brief passage through the ArteDechicago Institute, Jackie Kennedy's call by requiring a special hat for the inauguration of her husband on January 20, 1961 in Washington, the trampoline wasLegends of a global celebrity.He became an intimate friend of clients such as Elizabeth Taylor, Liza Minnelliy Lauren Bacall, with which she frequented the Studio54 dance floor with other artists like Warhol, who photographed him naked in his factory and portrayed him in any event with his mythical polaroidIf the opportunity arose.Warhol baptized the halstonets, friends and acquaintances who wore their volatile garments, free of the bra, and accompanied him in his apparitions in public.

His hedonism and media projection made him fifty years ago into a true influencer.But time does not put everyone in their place, and in the newspaper, it has not enjoyed the impact of other contemporary creators such as Jean-Paul Gaultier and Calvin Klein, who practically followed their wake associated with luxury, but better marketed their names.To top it off, Halston, even in life, lost the rights to his own brand.This happened in 1981, when his career collapsed and the disease led him to agony.Many of these sequences appear hilvanadas in the series that premieres in Netflix, and intends to value its figure, its influence and contribution to the world of fashion portraying a character with many clearings and shadows, an artistic bubble that brought together gods and godsMonsters.

Roy Halston, being a man, managed to capture the aspirations and needs of the woman of her time to modernize her aesthetics, change her silhouette and allow her to jump towards freedom.His star garment was a shirt dress, lower waist, which could also be washed by machine.A revolution that does not occur since Coco Chanel removed the corsets and reformulated elegance.For Halston, the challenge was even greater: that any woman in America had an object, bag or accessory with her name in her closet.GOOD VANITIES FAIR.

The Valencian Hatter and Design Professor Betto García, nominated as one of the referents in creativity and fashion for national publishers, has impacted with their designs in Ascot and in celebrations of real houses, and ensures that the arrival of this series is a goodNews because “he will announce a designer who historically has not been mainstream, and is a reference as a hat, just like Coco Chanel;I also agree on his origins designing these pieces that mark fashion, because you learn to dimension things at the volume level ”.Betto is sincere about the reality that today stands out to gay men as design referents of the most feminine accessories: “In my case it is my most drag point, I think of everything that I would wear and look if it were a woman;The things I do inspire me a lot when I imagine them in me, or in men and women of reference ”.

The Miniseries on the Estacounish Hatter, directed by Daniel Minahan, is a production of the genius Ryan Murphy (also producer of Ratched, American Horror Story, Hollywood or The Politician), a cinematographer father of a new queer culture, who has managed to sign EwanMcGregor for a role that is usually uncomfortable in the trajectory of any heterosexual actor: dawns its pose and speech.As he explained in promotional interviews, he accepted the challenge because the character addresses many more areas than his own sexual life, even if it is a defining pillar of his biography.Thus, McGregor will get into the life of the legendary American designer and in the society of the moment, the effervescent years 70 and 80 in New York City, from where contemporary culture redefined, the woman's style was redrawed and the market grewof luxury.The leading role will show the rise to stardom and subsequent collapse, the eccentricity that ended up deranging him and made him abandon his social status.

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The first expression that says the script of the series, an adaptation of the book Simply Halston (Steven Gaines, 1991) is “I have a feeling, I will change the face of American fashion”, and that is that Halston proposed it, he worked hard and he got it.It contained an obsessive talent that led him to recreate some of the most iconic pieces of the 20s and 30th era, giving them a new look, until his bags led him to fame.And just at the time he decided to open the brand to the general public through a cheaper commercial line, the problems that dragged him to professional failure, and that was projected to the personal sphere: while his usual collaborators lost fameThey turned their backs and the terrible disease came, Kaposi's sarcoma, a type of cancer originated after AIDS infection.

His friend Andy Warhol constantly referred Halston in his newspapers (1989 publication) and placed him as one of his most influential friends, a pillar of life, with which he shared confidences, fetishes, creative sphere and social position.In these texts he tells how Roy Halston flirted with different drugs, participated in group sex and maintained a continuous relationship with one of his friends, the Venezuelan gigoló Víctor Hugo.Together, they came to break into prime time in television programming with a program, Dinner with Halston, in which the guests were their own friends and creators close toListen to talk about sexual freedoms in the Mass Media.

It can be curious that the majority of accessory designers and female style accessories since the mid -twentieth century are homosexual men;A paradox that allows analyzing creative processes as part of a cultural system based on gender stereotypes and sexual diversity roles.Halston shared his talent with his friend Yves Saint Laurent, and together they gave a new aesthetic value and design culture to the eternal city of skyscrapers, and doing practically the same: redrawing women from the shop windows and editorials of trends magazines asInterview, of which Roy Halston was a regular collaborator.

His cocktail of addictions to different drugs overflowed since he reached fame to the last years of his life.Andy Warhol narrated how at the parties they were invited, Halston always accompanied the dressing table to her famous friends, and they spent good times inside.Ironically comment how New York high society understood that he did it to fix the seams of the dresses, but the reality was very different.His appearance of Gentleman, often dressed in unpolluted white, gummed and with a very angular face they brought him an ideal of beauty admired by the time;which contrasted with an affected yfule in gestures and in the way of speaking, with a lot of pen.However, his power silhouette vanished when his commercial empire declined.

The different sequences of the miniseries will narrate many of the most emblematic moments of the life of a gay designer that has meant an archetype reproduced in the last half century in other great fashion figures.But it will leave more intimate chapters, in which it is worth investing through the work of the icons of pop art.Written, shot and photographed moments that tell how after that sphere close to luxury, politically incorrect characters were hidden until the punk and tremendously funny were touched.Some of these episodes are related to the history of scenographies of the gay collective at the time, such as the discos Cheetah, Xenon or Studio54, as well as the pubs of Greenwich Village, where for decades the most claiming spirit of fags, lesbians and people was installed for decadestrans.